The Verdicchio wine

By now, everyone is aware of the fact that the Verdicchio is one of Italy's premium white wines. Over the last few decades, winegrowers in the region have invested significantly, both in their vineyards and in their wineries, thanks to a new generation of local enologists who have provided training and helped them to achieve success at the highest levels of excellence. The results speak for themselves as Verdicchio wines, today, can boast a ranking at the uppermost levels in all gatherings, tastings and competitions, both nationally and internationally. The Verdicchio is an indigenous vine (the name Verdicchio had already appeared in documents dated 1579) which has been predominant in the Marche region, having developed on the hills that run from the Esino River Valley to encompass the whole area around the town of Jesi, a terrain that is gently bathed in the sea breezes coming off the Adriatic Sea. The vine also thrived in the area around the town of Matelica where the more continental climate presents different characteristics, being nearer to the mountains and lacking the maritime influence. Within the region, a few large wineries that have made a name for themselves internationally as well as domestically, and some small ones, too, have distinguished themselves for the superior quality of their wine production. It often happens that an expert wine taster or simply a wine enthusiast passes through the region, marvelling at having “discovered” one or another producer, this or that bottle and describing the wine in terms of the intensity of flavor, the surprising structure, the balance between the acid notes and the alcohol content, the long and persistent final note. At one time, the Verdicchio was a vintage white wine, to be drunk young. This is no longer the case. All of the present day winegrowers, aware that the future will bring a greater selectivity and that only those who can satisfy new tastes and meet new challenges wisely and courageously will be rewarded. In fact, these producers are presenting us with great labels, capable of ageing well, without sacrificing any of their freshness and fragrance, as is befitting a product of class. Another aspect to be pointed out is the favourable quality/price ratio of this wine, something which certainly is a plus for the careful consumer and for anyone who knows how to move on international markets.

The Rosso Conero wine

Monte Conero is a promontory which detached itself from the Apennine Mountains in an ancient geological era and is now a cliff, falling sheer down to the Adriatic Sea, in the vicinity of Ancona. The surrounding landscape is one of pure enchantment which, with the crystal clear waters, draws considerable numbers of summer tourists. At the highest and rockiest point, reaching 572 meters in altitude, it is predominantly wooded, but includes typical Mediterranean vegetation such as privet, Spanish broom and arbutus. The latter gave its name to the promontory, as the word “Conero” derives from the Greek “kòmaros”. Further down, in the agricultural terrain that was created thanks to the erosion of the mountain, there grow wild aromatic herbs and lavender is cultivated, along with grapevines, long ago brought to the area and trained to prosper in the neatly cultivated vineyards. The Latin writer, Pliny the Elder, had praised the red wine produced in this area as far back as two thousand years ago. Today, the area surrounding the hillsides of Monte Conero is part of a nature park in which all of the local species of marine flora are carefully protected. This also includes the vineyards which cover an extremely circumscribed area where the Montepulciano vines are predominant, but where modest quantities of Sangiovese can be found, as well. In 1967 the Rosso Conero wine earned DOC status, among the first in Italy, for its Montepulciano and Sangiovese grape blend (maximum 15% of the latter, but with time, Montepulciano became more and more dominant as the Sangiovese was gradually phased out and now, is no longer used). As of 2004, this great red wine can proudly boast a DOCG classification for Reserve wines and can simply call itself “Conero”. Nowadays, all of the wine growing activity in this area revolves around the production of Rosso Conero with Montepulciano grapes which, thanks to a calcareous terrain and the gentle effects of the sea breezes, take on absolutely unique characteristics. The production zone does not extend very far, it is true, and quantities are limited; but it is precisely for this reason that this wine is sought-after and admired on both the domestic and foreign markets. This wine is unique because its terroir is unique, just as the climate is very specific and quite particular; the many tourists and travellers to the area who come to see the Conero and its beaches, to taste the delicious “moscioli” mussels, enjoy the breathtaking beauty of this gem of the central Adriatic. The visitor who wishes to acquaint himself with the area can do so by climbing the steep inclines or trekking along the gentle hills, finding, along the way, small or medium sized vineyards, but never huge expanses. By following an itinerary proposed by the Strada del Rosso Conero, the curious will have a chance to visit various wineries where the producers welcome visitors and tourists by offering a taste of this splendid red wine of remarkable body and soft, velvety tannins if aged for a number years. Of an intense ruby red color, a vinous and heady bouquet, it is full-bodied and rich on the palate, dry, velvety if well aged. In nearby Ancona, a young wine is usually paired with typical dishes such as the local version of lasagna, the “vincisgrassi”, and the rich, Ancona-style stockfish or with local cured meats such as salamis and hams; if the wine is more mature, it is served with red meats, game or cheeses, either aged or blue-veined.

Olive oil in the Marche

The terrain in the Marche, dominated by the foothills of the Apennines that gradually taper down towards the Adriatic coast, makes an ideal habitat for the cultivation of olive trees. Because this type of agriculture is non-intensive, we find many small lots where olives are cultivated in numerous varieties to produce oil with unique characteristics. Over the last twenty years, much effort has gone into the selection process and a veritable olive oil culture has ensued and spread. The fact that production has improved is obvious, as quality olive growing has increased, cultivation and harvesting methods have been bettered, the premium cultivars are well identified and modern oil extraction and conservation techniques are in widespread use. There are considerable numbers of cultivars which are capable of producing quality oils, even monovarietal ones. In addition to the leccino, frantoio and moraiolo varieties which are also well-known in other regions of Italy, the Marche is home to many other cultivars such as the tender Ascoli table olive, the coroncina, mignola, piantone di Falerone, raggia, and rosciola. The use of olive oil, instead of animal fats, is a fundamental characteristic of the Mediterranean diet. A good quality olive oil improves the dishes we serve at table, as it enriches them organoleptically and furthermore, it is indispensable to our good health.

Visciola wine

In the Marche, depending on where you go, it's given different names (visciolato, visner, etc.), but is most commonly known as visciola wine. The story behind this drink is rooted in ancient traditions, probably going as far back as Medieval times when it was customary to add flavorings to the wine. Then, over the course of centuries, individual farmers continued to prepare this “special occasion” wine to serve at a wedding or when a child was born, and each kept his own jealously-guarded secrets as to the recipe. Even today, this sweet, aromatic wine is prepared according to different techniques and, sometimes, with slightly different ingredients. The basic ingredient is the wild cherry, or visciola, that ripens in early summer, sugar and a local red wine (generally Sangiovese or Montepulciano). At one time, rum was added to increase the alcohol content, or spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg or mace, to round out the flavours, but this practice is only a distant memory, the recipe long forgotten in the cobwebs of time. Nowadays, there are still two variations that can be found in the preparation method. One calls for the very ripe cherries to be put in sugar and left to macerate all summer until grape harvest time, when grape must is added to start the fermentation process. The other method uses wine from the previous year to ferment the cherries and sugar. In both cases, the visciola wine will be ready to drink the following year, in about mid-spring. This lovely wine, redolent of warm and aromatic tones, that can be served either as a dessert wine or simply to sip over conversation, was virtually unknown outside of the Marche region until just recently when it has seen an increase in production. Aside from a very few industrial productions, we are speaking of only a few thousand bottles per producer and therefore, we can say it is a niche product. Consumer attention is on the rise, though, as those who taste the goodness of this delicious elixir rarely forget it. The favorable market trend is encouraging a number of producers to plant new wild cherry orchards, although they remain limited in size, almost as if to protect and guard the territorial uniqueness of this product. The taste of visciola wine is delicate and yet, intense, sometimes offering a pleasant and slightly bitter aftertaste which goes so well with the traditional rustic sweets of the Marche, such as the ciambellone (a hearty ring cake with or without a chocolate center), ciambelle di mosto (soft buns made with grape must) or biscottini all'anice (cookies flavored with anise). We invite you to contact the following producers: www.vignamato.com - www.vicarivini.it - www.cantinedelcardinale.it

The Truffle from Acqualagna

IThe truffle is a “subterranean fruiting body of European fungi” or, underground mushroom, known since Ancient times and well-loved in the kitchen for its sharp, distinctive and powerful aroma. There exist a number of different varieties, but the highest recognition for excellence has always gone to the “prized white” (Tuber magnatum Pico). It matures from October to December and is used raw, in its natural state, finely sliced over piping hot dishes. Acqualagna is a small town located not far from the gorge called Gola del Furlo, along the Metauro river, in the Pre-Apennine area of the region. The tradition of gathering and appreciating these prized tubers dates back to ages past. On Sundays, in the months of October and November of each year, one of the most important and well-known trade shows in Italy is held here. It attracts truffle connoisseurs and buyers from near and far. During the autumn months, the whole area surrounding the town is buzzing with the frenzied activity of truffle gatherers, who, with the help of their trained hounds, comb the woods and ditches to look for the damp places and hidden spots where they know truffles love to grow in close contact with trees like the Poplar, the Willow, the Hazelnut tree, the Black Hornbeam, the Turkey Oak and the Downy Oak. In the kitchen, the white truffle is a particularly refined ingredient and it can be used nicely in a variety of dishes, from pastas such as tagliatelle or passatelli, to veal carpaccio, from omelets to fried eggs. Truffles pair well with mushrooms and cheeses and are especially elegant with goose pâté. Gioacchino Rossini, one of our most famed native sons, loved truffles and was such a great enthusiast that he used them in numerous recipes that he created himself. - www.tartufidiacqualagna.it

The Solfino Bean
An ancient bean varietal of the Marche

The Solfino Bean has returned to the Marche region and specifically, to Serra de’ Conti. Small, round and pale yellow (like sulphur from which it takes its name), this bean variety was commonly cultivated in the central regions of Italy (Marche, Tuscany and Umbria) in the past. Nearing extinction, it has been brought “back to life“ and cultivated in several areas. It is now once again being grown in the Marche region, as well. The seed, a local ecotype, was rediscovered, studied and selected by the CRA – Experimental Horticultural Institute of Monsampolo del Tronto. La Bona Usanza di Serra de’ Conti, a cooperative which, in the past, had been committed to promoting the cultivation of the cicerchia, or chickling pea, an ancient pulse on the verge of extinction, is now also undertaking the cultivation of the Solfino bean. The motivation lies in the need to safeguard autochthonous varieties of agricultural products which are being threatened by the increasing use of industrial production methods. Many varieties of vegetables, fruit and legumes are inexorably falling victim to the dangers of extinction, due to the fact that industrial production aims exclusively for the big numbers and looks at the commercial weight, while the value of taste, biological diversity, rich varietal heritage and ties to history and tradition are so often overlooked or ignored. For several years now, in the Marche, a Regional Repertoire of genetic heritage has been established which records dozens of vegetable and fruit varietals, as well as animal breeds. The Solfino Bean (often called “Solfì”) possesses an array of very special organoleptic qualities, such as a particularly thin skin, creamy consistency, delicate taste and a capacity to hold up well in cooking. In order to appreciate all of its qualities, we recommend that you serve it just-boiled, while still warm, with a drizzling of good quality olive oil and a pinch of salt. This bean is sown in April and harvested at the end of July; it prefers dry and not overly rich soil as it does not tolerate stagnating water. Cultivation is difficult and somewhat risky each year, as the production of this crop is heavily dependent on the climate and furthermore, many of the operations must be done by hand. Thus, the Solfino Bean is, without a doubt, very good, but at the same time, is very demanding in that it requires much patient care in cultivation. It is for this very reason that it came so close to disappearing altogether. Yet, we can once more enjoy the Solfi, to the great joy and satisfaction of the farmers who have taken to heart this petite bean. - www.labonausanza.it

Maccheroncini di Campofilone

Campofilone is a small town, one of the many throughout the region that dot the landscape, perched on a hill, not too far from the sea. Yet, Campofilone is well-known in all of the best restaurants of the world, known for its pasta, for its “maccheroncini”. The origins of this pasta go back to the ancient art of making egg-dough pasta by hand, in the home, a common practice of every woman in households of the past. But these maccheroncini have a special feature: they are made from only eggs and wheat flour, without the addition of water. To be even more precise, the proportions are ten eggs per kilo of flour. At one time, families used tender wheat flour, but nowadays, in order for pasta to keep longer, durum wheat semolina is preferred. The egg dough is rolled out paper thin and allowed to dry for several hours, until it is ready to be folded over upon itself and cut into thin strips. The maccheroncini are so thin as to look like “angel hair” and thus, cook very rapidly in boiling water, in just one or two minutes' time, at most. Historical documents dating far back in time make references to this particular kind of pasta. In written texts from 1560 it was described as “so thin as to melt in the mouth”. In the centuries that followed, these maccheroncini appeared on the tables of the richest families alone, because the poorer population could not afford egg pasta every day (it was eaten only on special occasions or feast days during the year). Today, several pasta manufacturers produce the maccheroncini, although they are all small enterprises, halfway between an artisanal business and a small industry. Great attention is paid to the raw materials; the flour must come exclusively from Italian wheat, the eggs must come from hens raised on GMO-free grain and must be used fresh, within 72 hours of being laid. The drying process tries to reproduce the home environment of the past as faithfully as possible, when kitchens were heated by a fireplace and the pasta was left to dry slowly.
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Monterosso
San Lorenzo in Campo (Pu)
Farro e pasta di farro

The Monterosso company grows a Marche variety of spelt on its land, to offer a choice of products on the market: pearl spelt, crushed spelt, spelt meal and several types of pasta (spaghetti, small penne, curly macaroni and shells). Spelt belongs to the wheat family and the variety cultivated by Monterosso is the Triticum Dicoccum, a medium-grain spelt that was antecedent to Durum wheat. Spelt is an essential element in the Mediterranean diet. Planted in the Fall, spelt grows into plants that are strong and hardy, thrive even in poor rocky soil and adapt well to the frigid climate of the sub-Apennine areas of the Marche. No chemical fertilizers are ever used by this producer and thus, Monterosso spelt is an all-natural, organic product. - www.mrosso.it

 

Saffron in the Marche

Originally from Persia, saffron was known to Ancient Rome where it was considered a great luxury and used in a variety of ways. It had come to Europe thanks to the Arabs and, as far back as the Middle Ages, had widespread use in the kitchen. A plant that had been grown for a long time in the regions of Abruzzo (Navelli) and Umbria (Cascia), in recent years it was the object of experimental cultivation in the hills and sub- Apennine areas around Macerata, in the Marche region. The aim was to promote the agricultural production of saffron in these areas. The production zones best suited to this activity were identified in several townships and small lots of land were set aside for cultivation; studies were conducted to determine the composition of the soil, the importance of the altitude, the average temperature and rainfall in the different seasons of the year, as well as the best methods for tilling the land, harvesting the flowers and drying the stigmas. For the time being, marketing of the product has tended to follow local consumer chains. As far as the use of saffron is concerned, the old traditional recipes have been studied and re-proposed in a variety of dishes that go from starters to dessert. The span includes aromatic octopus salad, lasagna with zucchini blossoms and saffron threads, chicken drumsticks and omelettes, apple tart and saffron-flavored ricotta baskets.

Oleificio Montenovo
Via San Pietro, 11 – Ostra Vetere (An)

The Montenovo oil mill, located in the hills of Ostra Vetere, has recently become a reference point for all of the local area olive growers. In this olive oil mill, particular care is taken in every phase of oil production, from harvesting to milling the olives; moreover, anyone visiting the mill or inquiring as to their services will receive ample and detailed information. By using the most modern oil extraction techniques, the mill produces oils of top quality, including monovarietal oils (in particular, the raggia variety). Over the last few years, the Montenovo Olive Oil Mill has distinguished itself, earning recognition for quality, both at the regional and national levels. The most recent award received was the first prize in the annual competition, “L'oro delle Marche” (Marche Gold), in the “medium fruitiness” category. Anyone wishing to purchase a quality olive oil, whether for personal or for restaurant use, will find what they are looking for at the Oleificio Montenovo. - www.oleificiomontenovo.it

Frantoio Oleario Gabrielloni
Via Montefiore - Recanati (Mc)

This historic oil mill, owned and run by the Gabrielloni family, is located in the hills just above Recanati. The business adopts a perfect blend of both traditional and modern practices (hand-picked olives and a system of cold pressing with stone millstones). Quality is scrupulously controlled in every phase of production, from gathering to milling, so as to obtain nothing but the highest quality oils. The mill is open to visitors even during the oil-making season, and organizes oil tastings and olive oil courses.
www.gabrielloni.it

The Politi Brothers of Loretello
Loretello di Arcevia (An)
Vino, olio e ospitalità

The Politi brothers have always been profoundly attached to their territory. Back in the early 60s specialized vineyards were planted and today, the business owns over thirty hectares of vineyards, consisting mainly of Verdicchio grapes. The primary objective has always been to achieve the highest quality of the final product, with little antiparasite treatment and respect for regulations on low environmental impact. Their motto has always been ‘good grapes for good wine and healthy olives for high quality olive oil'. The pride and joy of the Politi brothers' business is their Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi “Loretello”, lauded and recommended by several food and wine guides as a wine with a good quality-price ratio. From the different varieties of olive ( frantoio, leccino, raggia, mignola ) three different oils are obtained: a raggia monovarietal (to be used on bruschette and grilled meats), a mignola monovarietal (to be used on bean soups and cooked vegetables and greens) and a blend of all the different varieties. Besides the agricultural activities of wine and oil making, a hospitality facility has been added in recent years. The old family home, a tower that dates back to the 17th century, was converted into the Agriturismo Montefiore. Guests can spend the night, immersed in an atmosphere of history and tradition, enjoy a breakfast consisting of a generous choice of local products and take in the glory of the infinite vastness of a view which embraces the breathtaking scenery of rolling hills from the mountains to the sea. An ample dining room welcomes guests wishing to taste wine, olive oil, cheese and honey produced in the immediate surrounding territory. As a testimony of excellence, the Politi business has earned the “Green Banner” award, a recognition bestowed upon producers who not only make top quality products, but who also carry out their activity in full respect of the environment. Without having to travel too far from the Agriturismo, there are a number of day-trip destinations of historical, artistic or natural interest, such as Urbino, the monastery of Fonte Avellana, the museum with the Gilded Bronzes in Pergola, the archaeological remains of the ancient Roman city of Suasa, the Della Rovere fortress and town of Mondavio, the caves of Frasassi. - www.cantinepoliti.it

Reginaldo Sentinelli
Fabriano (An)
Il salame classico di Fabriano

The “Reginaldo Sentinelli s.r.l.” company follows traditional methods to produce the famous salame classico di Fabriano, as well as lonzino and lonza (both made from the loin), headcheese and other types of cured meats. The pork meat comes from pigs raised by local farmers in the countryside around Fabriano, at the foot of the mountains. The swine are raised on only natural feed (cereal grains and meal, acorns,) until they are 12-13 months old and reach a weight of 170-200kg; the result is meat with a good balance of fat and lean parts and excellent organoleptic qualities. The production process is artisanal and the methods absolutely traditional. The traceability of each type of cured meat product is guaranteed. - www.reginaldosentinelli.it

Le Cantine del Cardinale
Serra de' Conti (An)
"Vino di visciole"

The Monterosso company grows a Marche variety of spelt on its land, to offer a choice of products on the market: pearl spelt, crushed spelt, spelt meal and several types of pasta (spaghetti, small penne, curly macaroni and shells). Spelt belongs to the wheat family and the variety cultivated by Monterosso is the Triticum Dicoccum, a medium-grain spelt that was antecedent to Durum wheat. Spelt is an essential element in the Mediterranean diet. Planted in the Fall, spelt grows into plants that are strong and hardy, thrive even in poor rocky soil and adapt well to the frigid climate of the sub-Apennine areas of the Marche. No chemical fertilizers are ever used by this producer and thus, Monterosso spelt is an all-natural, organic product. www.cantinedelcardinale.it

BruCo Chocolate
Via Brodolini 19, Castelplanio (An)

The name BruCo comes from the first syllables of the names Bruno and Costantina, the people who came up with the idea of putting together chocolate and anise back in the Forties and began a family business. From that old original recipe this small company grew to become what it is today, turning out products of unequivocal top quality while remaining absolutely faithful to the initial artisanal vision. Three types of cocoa are used; they are the Criollo, Forastero and Trinitario. The first is considered the finest, most delicate and most aromatic; the second is more bitter, with a more robust taste; the third is a cross between the first two. At BruCo the master chocolate makers have always been driven to produce the very best product they could and thus, went as far as southern Mexico, to the Tabasco region, to seek out ancient clones of the Criollo variety, with the collaboration of the local University to help them in their selection. To this priceless raw material are added four spices, the same originally used by the Mayas, anise, cinnamon, vanilla and chilli pepper. It was from this solid base, stemming from traditions spanning millennia that new products were grafted to bring forth innovations tied to Mediterranean culture and modern tastes.
Hence, new chocolate bar flavors were born: dark chocolate with anise, dark chocolate with coffee and anise, dark chocolate with orange and cinnamon, unusual combinations such as ancho mole and tequila, ciocc'olio with olive oil and chocolate with salt. When these chocolates are tasted they reveal their level of excellence in the color, in the internal uniformity of texture, in the intensity and finesse of both the primary and secondary aromas, in the fullness of taste and in the lingering complexity of the aftertaste. Depending on the product and the characteristics of its aroma and taste, suggested pairings include spiced tea laced with Bourbon, coffee spiked with aromatic Grappa, single malt Whisky, Rum or Armagnac. BruCo is all of this: small size, craftsmanship and top quality. This naturally explains why the brand has consistently earned prestigious recognition over the years, both on its home turf and abroad. - www.cioccolatodibruco.com